The Musketeers costumes – Athos’ Jacket 1/1
The body of Athos’ jacket is made of two front panels and two back panels with wedge-shaped flaps at the back and front (the front ones doubling as pockets; these have an extra seam running down them, they aren’t made of one piece of leather) which match those panels in width at the top. The bottom edges of these flaps are wider added up than the circumference of Athos’ hips, so they overlap a little. The waist seam is horizontal at the back, but slopes downwards from a bit below waist height at the side seams to a couple inches lower at the centre front. The right shoulder is reinforced with an extra layer of leather.
The sleeves are two-part sleeves that run down to halfway the back of Athos’ hand when the bottom edges aren’t folded back (the cuffs aren’t separate pieces sewn on). Only the top half of the sleeves are attached to the body, leaving the armpit open. On the last picture you can see a small triangular gusset added between the sleeve and the body to strengthen the place where they attach. I assume they’re also present at the back.
The edges of the collar, the bottom of the sleeve and the pocket flaps are bound with strips of leather. The wedge-shaped flaps at the bottom of the jacket are lined with more leather, and the front panels are also faced with leather at the centre front, though I’m not sure how far that continues – a bit beyond the buttons and buttonholes at least. The inside of the collar and the bottom of the sleeves are lined with linen; for the sleeves this could perhaps continue up for the whole sleeve.
The sleeves have five brass half-dome buttons and leather loops each, while the front of the jacket is closed with fourteen of the same buttons with corresponding leather-bound buttonholes. The pocket flaps have three buttons and bound buttonholes each.
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I’m looking forward to making this jacket, except maybe all those buttonholes! Does anyone want me to do a post like this for the others’ jackets as well?
In the DVD extras Tom Burke describes the colour of the jacket as slate or charcoal, but I think it does have some blueish undertones that are brought out in some types of light and through the post-processing of the images and video that makes it look blue sometimes. Colours are tricky!
I’ve found some near-perfect material to use for this though, and linen for the shirt is hanging outside to dry at the moment so this costume is off to a good start!
It may be the colour-grading that makes Athos’ coat that dusty blue colour, but I’m going to say it’s blue because it’s just gorgeous.
This jacket is my favourite piece in a show that has a plethora of mouth-watering costumes. It’s the first thing I noticed about the show, and the first thing that made me realise how much I was going to love it.
I completely agree! It was a bit disappointing figuring out it’s less blue unedited. But either way, the coat is lovely and though I’m making it for a costume, I think it’s going to be my general summer jacket too.
Just a thought, the blue could be because the leather they have used for the costume is chrome tanned? (which isn’t a proccess they had in the 1600s but its quite common now for non-tooling leather) I’ve seen quite a bit of chrome tanned black leather that looks bluish particularly in photographs
if you google image wet-blue leather thats what it looks like sort of half way through the process before finishes are applied, if its that it would mean the blue is there in the coat somewhere just not coming out all the time?
Not sure that’s incredibly helpful in terms of getting fabric for it unless you are planning to buy real leather but it could be interesting? even if its just to know the bluey tones might not all be in the editing
fearlessstateofmind backup 