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samhawke:

The Musketeers costumes – Aramis’ Coat 1/1

The body of Aramis’ coat is made of four panels; two front panels that wrap around the sides, and two back panels. Both shoulders are reinforced with an extra layer of scallop-edged leather that curves down from where the centre back seam meets the collar to about two thirds down the arm scye at the back, and down from a little bit below where the shoulder seam meets the collar to about halfway the arm scye on the front. These pieces are topstitched on. The side seams of the coat do not run straight down from the armpits but are placed further back, starting higher up the arm scye at the back and curving in further towards the centre back seam before running down to the waist seam. The waist seam slopes downward from about waist height at the centre back seam, around the sides and down to meet in a shallow downwards v-shape in the centre front.

The lower part of the coat is made of long panels of which the back ones are as wide as the upper back panels, the side flaps are as wide as the distance from the curved side/back seam to the centre side and the front panels run from the centre side to the centre front. This makes the front panels the widest, followed by the back panels, then the side panels as the narrowest. The panels are wider at the bottom than at the top and the front panels are shorter at the centre front edge (ending just below the knees) than at the sides, where they end at the same height as the other panels. The edges of the panels are bound with strips of leather.

The sleeves are two-part sleeves that run down a little over the wrists. Only the top half of the sleeves are attached to the body, leaving the armpit open. The bottom of the sleeve has a split along the outer seam. The open edges are bound and the cuff is closed with a button and two leather loops.

At the centre front the binding of the edges continues up the front of the body and along the collar. The collar is lined with more leather, and there is leather facing a couple of inches wide along the inside of the front edge of the body panels, where the loops and buttons attach. The rest of the upper part of the coat is lined with a darker brown fabric, probably linen. The buttons are sewn on loosely, near the bound edge of the coat and are not sewn to the loops on that side. When closing the coat, the loop on the button side is fastened over the button first, before the loop on the other side. The edges of the coat do not overlap and the buttons end up centred on the line where the edges meet. There are three buttons close together on the collar and nine spaced out down the front until the waist seam.